......... ...

Prop collecting, is an expensive undertaking. However it is sometimes more cost efficient and more personally rewarding if you purchase a kit prop. This too though not as expensive as a finished prop can be quite costly to your wallet.

You will encounter many terms used in Prop Building. Here is a short list of some.

1. "1:1 Reproduction"-Is a replica item of a weapon that is of exact scale to the original. The item could be reproduced with the aid of original studio molds. The item also could be reproduced just with the aid of reference photos of originals or with access to an original. A mold could be created using an original studio item and this mold could be used to then produce a 1:1 scale reproduction.

2. "Pull"-Is a replica of an original prop item that is created directly from the original studio molds.

3. "Resin" - A type of material used in the construction of many custom made original props as well as in the construction of one piece cheap casts of such things. Resin could be Poly-Urethane or Fiberglass.

4. "Mold" - An apparatus piece from which prop pieces can be made by adding resin or the appropriate material.

5. "Cast" - A prop produced through the assistance of a mold.

6. "Coyle"-Named after famed prop maker Richard Coyle, who turned his talents toward creating reproductions of famous props from Star Trek and other productions. His level of replication serves almost as the standard for the industry of the prop items he has replicated. An example of this term in use would be, "This is a Coyle Phaser."

7. "Certificate of Authenticity" (COA) is a term for a document that attempts to attest to a prop items history and authenticity. Such a document is no better than the reputation of the issuing agent however. Some companies issue Certificates of Authenticity that grant money back guarantees if at any point an item is proven to not be authentic. Short of this sort of documentation, a document issued by a person in the movie or television industry or who has a long history of reliability is a Certificate that matters. Sometimes studios themselves issue Certificates of Authenticity with items they sell at auctions or elsewhere.

8. "Prop Master" - a person in charge of keeping track of the props of a production as well as often obtaining or purchasing them.

9. "Icons" - a word referring to the Icons company that makes licensed replicas of a variety of Sci-Fi and fantasy props

10. "Found Props" These are props that are Literally found "off the store shelf." With some minor modifications, the prop-makers turn them into high-tech items. A prime example of this is the "Wall Mini-Com" used in Star Trek - Enterprise, is in fact a child's night-lite.

Generally most prop replicas are made of Poly-Urethane resin. Sometimes the props are completely painted and finished, this is called "A Build Up". The already finished versions can sell for almost double the cost of a kit prop or more. Mostly, you will find them in kit form. A Kit Prop is a prop that comes as either one large pre-molded Poly-Urethane piece or several smaller pieces. If the the Kit Prop has smaller pieces, it will require you to assemble to it, just as you would any other plastic model. Please bear in mind that your skills as a model builder will be put to the test. Kit Prop building is not recommended for beginner model builders.

Poly-Urethane resin is a fragile material. Props made from this material WILL NOT withstand being dropped! Unless they are made from High Impact Poly-Urethane resin, they will shatter upon hitting the ground.

Now bear in mind that an unfinished prop WILL REQUIRE sanding, primer and at times a generous amount of modelers putty. Your skills as a model builder, will be put to the test. The more time and effort you apply to these replicas, the better and more personally satisfying the prop will be.

It is most important at the time of purchase, to carefully inspect the prop and quickly identify the "need areas" that will require your attention. Whether it is sanding off the mold edge or to the repairing of depressions or nicks in the resin. Sometimes a prop comes out of the mold with large amounts of air bubbles in the resin. Be prepared to have a quantity of modeler's putty and sandpaper readily available. I recommend "Squadron Green," modelers putty. At times, one may find excess resin spill, marring the sides or surface of the prop. A Dremmel Moto-Tool is quite handy in repairing these events. A Dremmel Moto-Tool is a drill like tool that, with its various attachments (or drill bits) can sand, polish or can be used for engraving. This tool can be purchased at any fine store that sells electrical tools or at any hobby/train shop.

The inner mold casings are coated with a material known as "Mold Release." This material allows the hardened prop to "pop" out the mold. Residue from this material will also cling to prop. To this end it is very important to wash the prop in either a mild soap or preferably a degreasing compound before primer painting commences. Degreasing compound can be purchased at any automotive supply store.

Just as when sanding is the only course of action; large amounts of putty may be used to completely reshape a section of the prop. There are times when important details have either broken off or have not formed well in the molding process. It will require you to re-do or repair these areas. However, if you find such a prop that will require large amounts of air bubble filling or reconstructive puttying, it is my sincere hope you did not spend a large amount of money on something that requires so much work. Sometimes it is best to pass up this prop in the hopes of finding a better copy of what you seek.

There are times you may find that the Poly-Urethane resin was not mixed correctly. This is evident when you do heavy sanding to remove excess resin. The prop will emit an oily, sticky residue that will make that area impossible to paint. It is correctable by using modeler's putty over the sanded area. Once the putty is dry and sanded smooth, that area is ready to be primer painted.

Also, there are times when the prop pieces simply won't fit where they belong. Again this has been identified earlier by you. Generally, using a little elbow grease in sanding, will correct the problem. However in rare occasions, don't discount the use of a metal file or rasp to remove the excess resin and allow the piece to fit.

Automotive primer is excellent in identifying "need areas" that will require additional sanding or putty. Once the primer has completely dried (generally one day-dry time)and you are satisfied that no other putting is required, go over the prop with a very fine sandpaper. This slight "roughing" allows the paint to adhere better. This is especially important if you have to mask off other areas of the prop for spray painting of a different color.

When the time has come for painting your prop, make sure you have accurate photos for reference. Do not rely too heavily on close up shots from video taped episodes! The color settings on your TV or lighting for that scene may alter its appearance! Reference photos of your prop can be found in many books, magazines and sometimes found at On-Line Auctions.(example: EBAY)

I have found that automotive paints are the best paints that can be used in finishing your prop. The colors available are greatly varied and the paint is more durable than the average Testors' brand. When choosing any model paints, it is wise to be aware of which brands contain Lacquer and which do not. Lacquer will "eat" some model paints, thus destroying the props finish.

Remember also, that you may be forced to "mask off" certain areas of your prop to apply another color. The removal of this masking (generally, Masking tape) should always be removed by pulling the tape slowly and at a 45 degree angle. Pulling the tape off strait or too quickly could cause the base coat to be removed with the tape!

Also, I must point out that an airbrush is a useful tool to have available. I highly recommend you consider purchasing one. Should cost be a factor to you, Testors' makes a reasonably priced and effective airbrush. Their airbrush is perfect for painting large areas. When push comes to shove, you may be forced to hand mix the color you desire.

If your reference photos show that the original prop has LED's, then add them to yours. It is true that the LED's won't function, but this more appealing than simply painting on the lights. Or if the prop will accommodate it and you have the electronic expertise, build in your own circuit board for the LED lights.

Another idea you might want to try, when your prop hasn't been supplied with the proper graphics (GREEBLIES). It is possible to find on the internet, the type fonts for the various alien languages, as well as the corresponding alien logo or graphic. With a little creativity (and the proper graphics program) you can create the graphics for your prop and then print them for use on your project.

Vinyl Backed Graphics

Unlike traditional print operations, which can often be ruined over the years from repeated handling, vinyl backed graphics are completely impervious to moisture, touch, even water.

These are the raw graphics, printed on transparency film. They are printed in reverse. What does this mean? I'll explain. There are two surfaces on the transparency film. One side is sticky, and has a mild texture to it. This is the side that the printer actually prints on. The other side is smooth, and is not sticky. This is the "face" side, and this is the side that you want exposed to the users. That way, they can put their hands all over it and not mess up the ink underneath. So, when I say the graphics are printed in reverse, I mean that when the printer spits out the finished transparency film, the graphics are reversed on the "sticky" side. When you flip them over and look at the smooth side, they appear normal, ie, not reversed.

The vinyl gets applied to the sticky side of the transparency film. You can also look online for "Signmakers vinyl". There are many different companies offering this as a product. You will get slightly different results from each vinyl. When in doubt, spend the money and get the good stuff. It will last longer, be higher quality, and be easier to manage.

I cannot stress to you enough that prop building is a very challenging, rewarding and expensive hobby. Remember, the cost of some kit props can be over $100 or more. Keep this in mind and ask yourself one question at the time of purchase, "Can I put a prop together well enough that I would be willing to display and proudly show off to my friends?"

My advice to you is, "Start Small." Choose a prop that will require little sanding and painting. The one prop that comes to mind and I think is the best example is the "Cricket type" Phaser One from TNG. That prop is very small, reasonably low in cost to your wallet and should require a little amount of putty or sanding.

By no means confuse Model building and Kit Prop building as two separate hobbies. The principals and techniques are one and the same. For more informative tips on this subject, it is best to read books on basic and advanced model building techniques. Also, the staff at any fine Hobby Store is generally staffed by experienced model builders. Pick their brain's for helpful tips that could overt costly mistakes. The more time you spend on the prop, in preparation, materials, research, time and effort, the better the replica will turn out.

Choose from the following subjects	The Definition of a Prop	The Types of Props
The Creation and Construction of a Prop.	Advice on Kit Prop Building.	Prop Collecting.
Found Props	Greebles